What is a runway checklist?
Many fashion shows offer attendees pamphlets or programs that provide additional details about the clothing on the runway. The Perfection of Style Runway Checklist serves a similar purpose: each garment in the exhibition is represented in this brochure, organized by corresponding numbers. Each numbered entry includes details on materials, collection, year of construction, and name of client when applicable. Take the runway checklist home, or return it to the drop-off point at the end of the exhibition.
The Little Prince of Fashion
1. Chicago short daytime ensemble
Autumn–Winter 1960 Yves Saint Laurent for Christian Dior haute couture collection. Black-patent crocodile and mink jacket; black bouclé wool skirt
2. Dahlia end-of-day dress Spring–
Summer 1959. Yves Saint Laurent for Christian Dior haute couture collection. Red and orange warp print taffeta dress with raised bubble skirt. Fabric by Staron.
3. Panache short evening dress Autumn–
Winter 1958 Yves Saint Laurent for Christian Dior haute couture collection. Black façonné silk velvet flared dress.
4. Elephant blanc short evening dress
Spring–Summer 1958 Yves Saint Laurent for Christian Dior haute couture collection, known as Trapeze collection. White tulle embroidered dress.
The Beatnik Couturier
5. Coat
Autumn–Winter 1970 haute couture collection. Ginger-colored suede belted coat with appliqué of orange, dark brown, and burgundy suede flames. Model ordered by Nan Kempner.
6. Formal ensemble
Autumn–Winter 1966 haute couture collection. Offwhite wool jersey jacket and dress with gold studs along trim and yoke.
7. Pea coat
Spring–Summer 1967 haute couture collection. Navy blue whipcord peacoat with matching belt.
8. Cocktail dress
Spring–Summer 1966 haute couture collection. Organza “sailor sweater” dress embroidered with red, white, and blue sequins.
9. Coat
Autumn–Winter 1970 haute couture collection. Red leather double-breasted coat.
10. Evening ensemble
Autumn–Winter 1968 haute couture collection. Black suede fringed tunic embroidered with pink and green stones; pink silk satin blouse; black satin crepe pants. Embroidery by Lesage.
The Celebrity Couturier
11. Daytime dress
Autumn-Winter 1976 haute couture collection, known as Opéra–Ballets Russes collection. Black wool etamine blouse trimmed with braided gold passementerie and
black silk velvet belt.
12. Wedding gown
Autumn–Winter 1970 haute couture collection. Multicolored silk velvet coat with appliqué letters forming the words LOVE ME FOREVER (front) OR NEVER (back) and heart, stars, and cloud in multicolored silk satin.
13. Cocktail ensemble
Spring–Summer 1977 SAINT LAURENT rive gauche collection. Spanish-style ensemble with black faille corselet; white serge cotton hot pants; black façonné stole with multicolored silk fringe.
14. Evening gown
Autumn–Winter 1977 haute couture collection. Black façonné silk satin Chinese-style wrap dress with mink-trimmed cuffs and black passementerie belt. Fabric by Abraham.
A Living Legend
15. Evening gown
Autumn–Winter 1983 haute couture collection. Paris pink silk satin draped bodice with large bow and black silk velvet skirt.
16. Long evening ensemble
Spring– Summer 1980 haute couture collection. Black gazar jacket with gold embroidery; black and gold lace dress. Fabric by Abraham. Model ordered by Diana Vreeland.
17. Short evening ensemble. Inspired by Henri Matisse
Autumn–Winter 1981 haute couture collection. Ivory wool etamine Romanian-style blouse embroidered with sequins, silk thread, seed beads, and tubular beads in reds, greens, and oranges; flared skirt of sapphire-colored silk velvet; black silk embroidered belt. Embroidery by Lesage.
Contradictory Impulses
18. Pantsuit
Spring–Summer 1999 haute couture collection. Navy wool canvas short jacket and pants; navy silk chiffon blouse and scarf belt.
19. Coat
Worn by Catherine Deneuve in Luis Buñuel’s movie Belle de jour, 1967. Autumn–Winter 1966 SAINT LAURENT rive gauche collection. Black belted slicker with black knit wool sleeves.
20. Daytime ensemble
Worn by Anny Duperey in Alain Resnais’s movie Stavisky, 1974. Barbizon black and white tweed wool coat with silver fox shawl collar; beige silk satin blouse, black leather belt; black wool flared skirt.
21. Evening gown
Autumn–Winter 1968 haute couture collection. Black chiffon loose-fitting gown with black ostrich feathers and gold metal snake-shaped belt. Adornments by Barbier.
22. Evening gown
Autumn–Winter 1993 haute couture collection. Black silk faille gown with black silk velvet bodice, muttonchop sleeves; black silk tulle bustier.
The Genders
23. Jumpsuit
Spring-Summer 1975 haute couture collection. Black silk jersey jumpsuit with long zipper and drawstring waist. Model ordered by Betty Catroux.
24. “ First” pantsuit
Spring–Summer 1967 haute couture collection. Black wool double-breasted jacket and pants with white pinstripes. Collection Hamish Bowles.
25. Skirt suit
Spring–Summer 1967 haute couture collection. Three-piece ensemble composed of navy wool jacket, vest, and inverted-pleat skirt with pinstripes.
26. Tuxedo
Autumn–Winter 1966 SAINT LAURENT rive gauche collection. Black barathea weave jacket and pants with black silk satin braided trim; white cotton shirt. Archives Anouschka Paris.
27. Tuxedo dress
Autumn–Winter 1966 haute couture collection. Black wool dress with flounced bib, white organdy cuffs, and black patent leather belt.
28. Daytime ensemble
Spring–Summer 1968 SAINT LAURENT rive gauche collection. Beige cotton gabardine lace-up safari jacket; black cotton twill hot pants; belt composed of copper metal rings. Model ordered by Betty Catroux.
29. Daytime ensemble
ca. 1968 SAINT LAURENT rive gauche men’s collection. Beige cotton gabardine belted safari jacket and trousers. Archives Anouschka Paris.
30. Evening pant ensemble
Autumn–Winter 1968 haute couture collection. Black silk satin crepe tunic with white silk satin cuffs, straight-legged pants; tie belt. Model ordered by both Diana Vreeland and Nan Kempner.
31. Pantsuit
Spring–Summer 1976 haute couture collection. Pinkishbeige gabardine jacket and pleated pants.
A Modular Wardrobe
32. Coat
Spring–Summer 1970 SAINT LAURENT rive gauche collection. Blue topstitched denim coat with
appliqué belt.
33. Pantsuit
Autumn–Winter 1969 SAINT LAURENT rive gauche collection. Brown wool jersey jacket and pants with matching belt. Archives Anouschka Paris.
34. Daytime ensemble
Autumn–Winter 1976 SAINT LAURENT rive gauche collection. Quilted cotton canvas vest and skirt with pink floral print; cotton tabby sleeves with gray 24 floral pattern.
35. Daytime ensemble
Autumn–Winter 1976 SAINT LAURENT rive gauche collection. Red wool etamine jacket and skirt with black passementerie trim; black passementerie tie belt. Archives Anouschka Paris.
36. Daytime ensemble
Autumn–Winter 1969 SAINT LAURENT rive gauche men’s collection. Purple panne velvet tunic and pants. Archives Anouschka Paris.
37. Daytime ensemble
Autumn–Winter 1980 SAINT LAURENT rive gauche collection. White wool etamine Romanian-style blouse and gypsy skirt with multicolored print and orange, blue, and fuchsia braided belt.
38. Coat
Autumn–Winter 1976 SAINT LAURENT rive gauche collection. Brown wool fabric with black braided passementerie trim.
39. Evening ensemble
Autumn–Winter 1977 SAINT LAURENT rive gauche collection. Black silk chiffon blouse with gold lamé polka dots; black chiffon and gold lamé gypsy skirt with floral pattern.
40. Daytime ensemble
Spring–Summer 1977 SAINT LAURENT rive gauche collection. Off-white terry cloth top, cuffs and hem embroidered with off-white and brown thread; voluminous pants, hem with matching embroidery.
41. Evening ensemble
Homage to Léon Bakst Spring–Summer 1991 SAINT LAURENT rive gauche collection. Jeweled bustier with multicolored ceramic and glass beads; organdy pants with a multicolored pattern and belted with a burgundy passementerie cord with tassels. Fabric by Abraham.
42. Daytime ensemble
Spring–Summer 1971 SAINT LAURENT rive gauche collection. White silk crepe blouse with red lips pattern; black silk velvet hot pants; black passementerie belt decorated with two hearts. Archives Anouschka Paris.
43. Daytime dress
Autumn–Winter 1967 SAINT LAURENT rive gauche collection. Yellow cotton pique dress; sleeves and hem trimmed with red guipure (a kind of lace). Archives Anouschka Paris.
44. Daytime dress
Autumn–Winter 1969 SAINT LAURENT rive gauche collection. Black silk crepe dress with lace-up bodice and black leather belt.
45. Daytime ensemble
Autumn–Winter 1969 SAINT LAURENT rive gauche collection. Purple panne velvet lace-up tunic and pants. Archives Anouschka Paris.
46. Trench coat
Spring–Summer 1973 SAINT LAURENT rive gauche collection. Beige cotton canvas trench coat with drawstring belt. Archives Anouschka Paris.
The Alchemy of Style
47. Evening gown
Autumn–Winter 1973 haute couture collection. Green and brick red tartan-print façonné crepe de chine gown; bodice with bow and skirt with knife pleats. Fabric by Abraham.
48. Evening gown
Autumn–Winter 1986 haute couture collection. Leopardprint silk satin strapless dress in shades of brown and black with lacing and mermaid skirt. Fabric by Abraham.
49. Jacket
Spring–Summer 1972 haute couture collection. White organza cardigan sweater embroidered with sequins, tubular and round beads, rhinestones, and metallic threads mimicking silver knit fabric. Embroidery by Mesrine.
50. Evening gown
Autumn–Winter 1970 haute couture collection. Black georgette gown embroidered with a falling flowers pattern of pink, purple, and blue seed beads. Embroidery by Lesage.
51. Jacket
Autumn–Winter 2001 haute couture collection. Silk organza jacket embroidered with gold and iridescent sequins forming a harlequin pattern. Embroidery by Lesage.
52. Short evening dress
Spring–Summer 1994 haute couture collection. Beige organza dress embroidered with purple, pink, silver, and beige beads and sequins with beaded fringe. Embroidery by Lesage.
53. Jacket
Spring–Summer 1983 haute couture collection. Black organza jacket embroidered with tortoiseshell pattern of red, orange, white, silver, and black sequins and black and orange seed beads; edges decorated with black faceted beads, silver rhinestones, and coral tubes. Embroidery by Lesage. Garment owned by Loulou de La Falaise.
54. Short evening dress
Spring–Summer 1970 haute couture collection. Black silk chiffon Charleston dress embroidered with circles and vertical stripes of black, silver, red, and gold shiny and matte sequins. Embroidery by Lesage. Model owned by Catherine Deneuve.
Artistic Influences
55. Cocktail dress. Homage to Pop Art
Autumn–Winter 1966 haute couture collection. Green wool jersey dress with heart-shaped pink wool jersey piecing and uneven strip of blue wool jersey.
56. Cocktail dress. Homage to Pop Art
Autumn–Winter 1966 haute couture collection. Black wool jersey dress with mouth-shaped red wool jersey piecing.
57. Cocktail dress. Homage to Pop Art
Autumn–Winter 1966 haute couture collection. Peacock blue wool jersey dress with orange wool jersey circle piecing and irregular strips of navy blue and yellow wool jersey.
58. Cocktail dress. Homage to Pop Art
Autumn–Winter 1966 haute couture collection. Dark blue wool jersey dress with red wool jersey crescent moon piecing and irregular strips of light blue and black wool jersey.
59. Evening gown. Homage to Tom Wesselmann
Autumn–Winter 1966 haute couture collection. Purple wool jersey dress with pink wool jersey piecing.
60. Cocktail dress. Homage to Piet Mondrian
Autumn–Winter 1965 haute couture collection. Wool jersey dress with ivory, black, blue, red, and yellow piecing.
61. Evening gown
Spring–Summer 1971 haute couture collection. Blue and black printed crepe de chine gown with pattern inspired by figures on ancient Greek vases; short-sleeved bodice and skirt with sunburst pleating. Fabric by Abraham.
62. Short evening dress. Homage to Georges Braque
Spring–Summer 1988 haute couture collection. Black barathea weave belted dress with two white cotton piqué doves. Adornments by Lemarié.
63. Suit. Homage to Pablo Picasso
Autumn–Winter 1979 haute couture collection. Black wool ottoman jacket with gold, purple, and blue lamé ottoman yoke and gold ottoman cuffs; black silk velvet straight skirt. Model ordered by Paloma Picasso.
64. Short evening ensemble
Spring–Summer 1967 haute couture collection. Fringed raffia coat, neckline embroidered with brown wooden beads; ivory silk dress embroidered with wooden beads. Embroidery by Lanel.
From Darkness to an Explosion of Color
65. Evening gown
Autumn–Winter 1977 haute couture collection. Black silk velvet gown with black and gold passementerie belt and fox stole.
66. Evening gown
Autumn–Winter 1990 haute couture collection. Black chantilly lace asymmetrical gown embroidered with black sequins; two pink silk satin ribbon bows.
67. Evening gown
Autumn–Winter 1969 haute couture collection. Black faille, satin, and silk velvet patchwork gown and black moiré belt. Patchwork by Brossin de Méré.
68. Evening ensemble
Autumn–Winter 1991 haute couture collection. Old-gold lamé long A-line tunic and black silk satin pants with
ruching.
69. Long evening ensemble
Spring–Summer 1985 haute couture collection. Brown silk gazar coat and draped silk chiffon strapless gown with brown snakeskin-print lamé. Fabric by Abraham.
70. Long evening ensemble
Autumn–Winter 1976 haute couture collection. Brown silk velvet hooded cloak trimmed with gold lamé passementerie; ivory and gold wool etamine blouse; skirt trimmed with braided gold passementerie; tie belt.
71. Evening gown
Autumn–Winter 1977 haute couture collection. Silver lamé silk dress with drawstring belt. Model ordered by Bianca Jagger.
72. Long evening ensemble
Autumn–Winter 1977 haute couture collection. Bolero embroidered with gold and black seed beads; black silk jersey pants trimmed with black mink. Embroidery by Lesage.
73. Evening gown
Spring–Summer 1977 haute couture collection. Black silk gazar gown with layered flounces edged in black silk velvet ribbon.
74. Evening gown
Autumn–Winter 1991 SAINT LAURENT rive gauche. Gold silk lamé sari-style dress with bodice draped to form a hood and skirt draped at the hips.
75. Evening suit
Autumn–Winter 1981 haute couture collection. Organza jacket and long skirt embroidered with gold chenille, rhinestones, and green, blu e, and red sequins forming a paisley pattern. Embroidery by Lesage.
76. Evening ensemble
Spring–Summer 1981 haute couture collection. Black chiffon blouse embroidered with black beads and black sequins; loose ice blue moiré faille bustle skirt with ruffled flounces creating a train effect; black shawl. Embroidery by Vermont.
77. Evening gown
Autumn–Winter 1994 haute couture collection. Silk chiffon wrap-style dress with floral and arabesque pattern in shades of blue, flared sleeves with slits. Fabric by Abraham.
78. Evening gown
Spring–Summer 1989 haute couture collection. Iridescent Neptune blue chiffon cape and strapless dress of draped lichen green and moss green chiffon. Model ordered by Nan Kempner.
79. Evening gown
Autumn–Winter 1980 haute couture collection. Green silk velvet medieval-style dress with flared sleeves lined in purple façonné silk satin; black passementerie and embossed metal tie belt.
80. Evening gown. Homage to Henri Matisse
Autumn–Winter 1981 haute couture collection. Blue silk taffeta gown with white silk taffeta flounces trimmed with black braiding.
81. Evening ensemble
Autumn–Winter 1979 haute couture collection. Black silk velvet long coat; green chiffon long pleated dress; belt made of black ribbons, passementerie, and jet beads.
82. Evening ensemble
Autumn–Winter 1976 haute couture collection, known as Opéra-Ballets Russes collection. Multicolored silk chiffon lamé blouse; emerald-colored silk moire petticoat skirt trimmed with black silk; purple taffeta underskirt; silk velvet belt trimmed with red rhinestones and passementerie cord ties.
83. Evening ensemble
Autumn–Winter 1981 haute couture collection. Storm gray silk satin trench coat; black marocain sheath skirt; black silk velvet sweater; copper headdress. Headdress by Claude Lalanne.
84. Evening gown
Spring–Summer 1980 haute couture collection. Rose, orange, red and pink silk patchwork gown offset by pink ruched silk satin ribbon. Patchwork by Brossin de Méré.
85. Evening gown
Spring–Summer 1999 haute couture collection. Asymmetrically draped iris blue silk crepe gown. Model ordered by Paloma Picasso.
86. Evening ensemble
Autumn–Winter 1979 haute couture collection. Pink gazar ruffle cape with black silk velvet and black passementerie neckline; black silk velvet sheath dress with pink gazar ruffles; black silk passementerie tassels with beaded ends.
87. Evening gown
Spring–Summer 1986 haute couture collection. Purple silk crepe dress and belt. Model ordered by Loulou de La Falaise.
88. Short evening dress
Autumn–Winter 1977 haute couture collection. Purple silk crepon gown with black lace ruffles, cuffs, and petticoat.
89. Formal dress
Autumn–Winter 1981 haute couture collection. Fuchsia taffeta dress with ruffled flounces.
90. Evening gown
Autumn–Winter 2000 haute couture collection. Purple silk crepe draped vestal-style gown with two panels forming a hood.
91. Evening ensemble
Autumn–Winter 1977 haute couture collection. Fuchsia and gold damask Chinese-style paletot (jacket); red silk velvet pants; fuchsia silk crepe blouse.
92. Evening gown
Spring–Summer 1994 haute couture collection. Orange draped silk chiffon gown with a cloud pattern and sash belt with matching flower.
93. Evening gown
Spring–Summer 1997 haute couture collection. Bodice embroidered with silk organza, sequins, and raffia in a poppy and leaves pattern; red silk tulle pleated skirt with red silk satin ribbon tie belt. Embroidery by Lesage.
94. Evening ensemble
Spring– Summer 1977 haute couture collection. Net chiffon and black lace Romanian-style blouse; coral faille petticoat skirt with black silk velvet ball trim, trimmed with black braid. Model ordered by Hélène Rochas.
95. Evening gown
Autumn–Winter 1995 haute couture collection. Strapless dress with flared skirt, black silk velvet front, coral silk faille loose bustle with train, and black silk velvet bow.
96. Evening ensemble
Autumn–Winter 1983 haute couture collection. Chinese yellow faille domino, black silk velvet bustier dress with lace yoke and draped skirt. Model ordered by Nan Kempner. Collection Hamish Bowles.
97. Evening gown
Spring–Summer 1985 haute couture collection. Red silk crepe gown with plunging V-neck. Model ordered by Nan Kempner.
98. Evening ensemble
Autumn–Winter 1976 haute couture collection, known as Opéra-Ballets Russes collection. Gown with black silk velvet bodice, black silk satin sleeves, and lacing trimmed with embroidery of jet beads; yellow silk satin long loose-fitting skirt gathered at the waist with inverted pleats.
99. Evening ensemble
Autumn–Winter 1991 haute couture collection. Cerise silk faille coat embroidered with red seed beads and black silk velvet strapless sheath dress. Fabric by Abraham.
100. Evening gown
Worn by Marie-Hélène de Rothschild for the Proust Ball, December 1971. Ivory silk satin ball gown with train, neckline extended by a silk chiffon flounce, muttonchop sleeves trimmed with a silk chiffon flounce with sunburst pleating, black silk velvet bow, black silk velvet ribbon and black pleated silk tulle hem, and ivory silk satin pouf-style sash belt.
101. Evening gown
Spring–Summer 1980 haute couture collection. White gazar dress with wide ruffle at the neck, long striped skirt with a pleated effect nd a horizontal strap of black gazar bias, and black grosgrain belt.